What is viscose?
Viscose is a regenerated cellulose fibre that is the earliest man-made semi-synthetic cellulosic fibre and was first commercially available in 1905. It was first marketed as artificial silk that is cheaper and more durable and is currently the third most commonly used textile fibre globally.
Viscose most commonly comes from hardwood forests, and more specifically from fast-growing regenerative trees such as eucalyptus, beech, pine, bamboo, soy, sugarcane, and from cotton linters. Although harvesting methods vary drastically depending on the type of trees and the location of harvest, most trees are harvested where they are grown and then peeled and cut into logs. The cellulose is then transformed into dissolving wood pulp and sold to producers for either filament or fibre production.
Is viscose the same as rayon?
It is sometimes referred to as rayon, but it is merely a type of rayon, which is defined as a semi-synthetic fibre made from cellulose). The other types include modal, lyocell and cupro, each differing from each other based on manufacturing process and properties of the fabric.
What are viscose’s material properties?
Viscose is a soft, silky fibre with a bright and lustrous appearance, offering a luxurious feel similar to natural fabrics like silk. It is highly absorbent, making it comfortable to wear in warm weather, and it retains colour well, ensuring vibrant and long-lasting hues. However, viscose becomes about 50% weaker when wet, requiring careful handling during washing. Its breathable nature and versatility make it a popular choice for a wide range of garments and textiles.
How is viscose produced?
Environmental Impact
The production of viscose has significant environmental consequences, affecting workers, communities, and ecosystems. To meet fast fashion demand, viscose is often manufactured using chemically intensive processes, cheap energy, and vast amounts of water. While derived from renewable fast-growing trees, much of the raw pulp comes from endangered and ancient forests, contributing to deforestation, biodiversity loss, and climate change.
Key sustainability challenges include:
- Unsustainable logging – it degrades ecosystems, contaminates water systems, and disrupts soil quality, often disregarding Indigenous rights.
- Chemical mills used in pulp production – they contribute to pollution, with chemical waste and emissions remaining a critical concern despite technological improvements.
- Inadequate waste-treatment systems – specifically in fibre production, lead to toxic chemicals polluting waterways, harming local ecosystems, and endangering public health.
How to Improve Sustainability in Viscose Production
In 2016-17, Viscose made 91% of cellulosic production, but only 29% of this was sustainably sourced. To improve sustainability in your process you should consider these things:
1. Chose Sustainable Raw Materials
Source viscose from certified, sustainably managed forests, avoiding materials from endangered or ancient forests. Transitioning to responsibly sourced pulp can help reduce deforestation and its associated impacts.
2. Increase Supply Chain Transparency
Work with suppliers who offer clear and traceable supply chains to reduce emissions and ensure ethical practices. Fibre production and spinning often occur in different countries, making it essential to trace the material back to its origin.
3. Adopt Closed-Loop Processes
Partner with manufacturers using advanced technologies such as TENCEL’s solvent-spinning process, which recycles water and solvents with over 99% efficiency. Companies like Re:newcell already convert waste fibres into usable pulp, reducing the need for virgin resources.
4. Encourage Responsible Disposal Practices
While viscose is technically biodegradable, its chemical processing often prevents natural degradation. Advocate for recycling initiatives to extend the life of viscose products and minimise landfill contributions. Additionally consider supporting systems that ensure safe decomposition of viscose without environmental harm.
Key Certifications and organisations for this include:
- FSC
- PEFC
- CANOPY
- OEKO-TEX Standard 100
- EU Ecolabel
- USDA Certified Biobased Products
Having these certifications enhance consumer trust and improve marketability, whilst also ensuring your company meets regulatory, environmental and industry standards. To further support this, according to a 2023 survey reported by The New York Post, 51% of Americans are more likely to purchase products with sustainability certifications, underscoring the influence of such certifications on buying behaviour.
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