As sustainable fashion continues to rise in popularity, vegan leather has emerged as a key player in the development of cruelty-free, eco-friendly products. Whether you’re a product developer considering using vegan leather in your next collection or preparing to create a tech pack, understanding the materials, benefits, and certifications surrounding vegan leather is crucial.
In recent years there has been an abundance of research and technological advancement to lead the way towards leather alternatives. Leather substitutes are being researched in labs or explored through organic materials and waste research, and the properties are always improving.
Technological advancements have allowed a variety of materials to now be commercially viable with large companies like Stella McCartney, Adidas, and Patagonia harnessing these materials in their collections. These alternatives aim to tackle social, ethical and/or environmental obstacles that the textile industry is incrementally facing.
This article will guide you through what vegan leather is, the benefits it offers, and key considerations for incorporating it into your product development process.
What is Vegan Leather?
Vegan leather is a synthetic or plant-based alternative to traditional leather, designed to mimic the look and feel of animal leather without using any animal products. It can be made from a variety of materials, including:
- Polyurethane (PU) and Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC): These are the most common types of vegan leather, made from petroleum-based materials. While affordable and durable, they are not biodegradable and contribute to plastic waste.
- Plant-Based Materials: Innovations in sustainable fashion have introduced vegan leather made from pineapple leaves (Piñatex), cactus (Desserto), mushrooms (mycelium), apple peels, and cork. These materials offer a more eco-friendly alternative to plastic-based leathers and are gaining popularity for their biodegradability and reduced environmental impact.
In recent years, there has been an abundance of research and technological advancement, allowing these leather alternatives to become more commercially viable. Companies such as Stella McCartney, Adidas, and Patagonia are embracing these materials in their collections, using them to tackle social, ethical, and environmental challenges that the textile industry is facing.
For product developers, these diverse materials provide opportunities to experiment with new textures and qualities in your designs while appealing to environmentally conscious consumers.
Why Consider Vegan Leather for Product Development?
When developing a product, choosing vegan leather can offer several advantages:
- Sustainability: Vegan leather, particularly plant-based versions, reduces reliance on animal agriculture, which is a major contributor to deforestation, greenhouse gas emissions, and water pollution. This helps lower the overall carbon footprint of your product.
- Versatility: Vegan leather is available in a wide range of textures, colours, and finishes, allowing product developers to customise it to suit various design needs. Whether you’re creating a high-end handbag or durable footwear, vegan leather can meet different demands.
- Cost-Effectiveness: Synthetic vegan leathers are generally more affordable than animal leather, allowing for more budget-friendly product development without sacrificing quality.
- Ethical Appeal: With growing consumer awareness around ethical production, incorporating vegan leather into your products can enhance your brand’s appeal to a more conscientious market. Highlighting cruelty-free and eco-friendly materials can be a strong selling point.
What are some types of Plant-based Vegan Leather?
| Leather Type | Production and Properties |
| Cactus | Produced by Adriano Di Marti under the brand Desserto, cactus leather is made from nopal cactus leaves, which require no water or chemicals to grow. It is durable, organic, and comparable in elasticity and feel to conventional leather. Free from toxic chemicals, phthalates, and PVC, it remains only partially biodegradable. |
| Coconut | Known as Malai, this flexible, non-woven durable leather alternative is made from bacterial cellulose grown on the coconut industry’s agricultural waste. It has the feel and look of leather and is reinforced with natural fibres and can be naturally dyed, though with limited colour options. Being fully organic, it is also compostable. |
| Wine | Wine leather, developed by Italian company Vegea, is made from grape byproducts like seeds, stalks, and skins, part of the 7 billion kilos of grape byproduct produced every year during wine production. It requires no toxic solvents, chemicals or heavy metals to produce and mimics traditional leather. However, it is not biodegradable and is currently still in development for use in accessories and car interiors. |
| Apple | Made with a minimum of 50% apple skin and core waste, apple leather was pioneered by Frumat after seeing the amount of waste produced in the apple industry. Aesthetically it resembles leather but it has more of a paper feel. As it isn’t 100% organically derived, there is the possibility of having different backings and coatings to modify its thickness and aesthetic. |
| Mirum | Developed by Natural Fiber Welding, Mirum is made from a mix of virgin and waste natural materials such as cork. It is fully biodegradable, petroleum-free, and produced through a closed-loop process that requires no water. Designed for circularity, it can be reprocessed into new material or composted, making it one of the most sustainable leather alternatives. |
Key Certifications for Vegan Leather
When developing products with vegan leather, it’s important to ensure that the materials meet certain environmental and ethical standards. Here are four key certifications to look for:
- STEP by OEKO-TEX: This certification ensures environmentally friendly production processes, focusing on sustainable production, fair working conditions, and resource efficiency.
- LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX: This certification tests for harmful substances in leather, ensuring that no toxic chemicals are used in the production process, making it safer for both the environment and the consumer.
- Leather Working Group (LWG): The LWG promotes sustainable business practices within the leather industry. They audit leather manufacturers for environmental performance, including water usage and energy consumption, and certify those that meet their standards.
- Fairtrade: Fairtrade certification ensures that the workers involved in the production of vegan leather materials are paid fairly and work under safe, ethical conditions. This certification highlights your commitment to ethical practices throughout the supply chain.
Building Your Tech Pack with Vegan Leather
When incorporating vegan leather into your product design, one of the first steps is creating a comprehensive tech pack. A tech pack outlines the specifications, materials, and construction details of your product, ensuring that manufacturers understand your exact requirements.
Including vegan leather in your tech pack requires clear communication with your supplier about the type of material, certifications, and specific treatments required to achieve the desired outcome. Be sure to detail the following in your tech pack:
- Material Type: Specify whether you’re using synthetic or plant-based vegan leather, and include any certifications.
- Finish and Texture: Include detailed descriptions or samples of the finish, whether it’s matte, glossy, textured, or smooth.
- Sustainability Goals: If sustainability is a key factor, include your environmental objectives and ask for materials that meet these standards.
To get started on creating a tech pack, check out our detailed guide on how to build a tech pack. It includes everything you need to know to effectively communicate your product design to manufacturers and ensure the quality of your final product.
Looking to streamline your product development process? Explore how our fashion PLM solutions can help you manage materials, track sustainability efforts, and collaborate efficiently.
Conclusion
As consumer demand for sustainable and ethical products grows, vegan leather presents an exciting opportunity for product developers to innovate and meet market expectations. By understanding the materials available, the benefits they offer, and key certifications, you can confidently incorporate vegan leather into your designs. Whether you’re developing fashion accessories, footwear, or upholstery, this eco-friendly alternative is worth considering in your next tech pack.
