“I have decided on my design, style, and the look of my product. Now, how do I print the design?”
This is one of the most common questions we get from both new and experienced designers. The good news is, there are several fabric printing methods available, each with its own distinct advantages. Choosing the right one depends on the look you want to achieve, the fabric you’re using, your budget, and your minimum order quantities (MOQ).
From working with some of the top printers, we’ve discovered that there isn’t a single “best” printing method. Instead, it’s about finding the one that best aligns with your project’s needs. Here’s an insight into the most popular printing techniques: block printing, screen printing, digital printing, dye sublimation, pigment printing, reactive printing, and direct-to-garment (DTG) printing.
Block Printing
Block printing is the oldest method, dating back to the fifth century BC, with roots in India, Japan, and China. This is the most artisanal and hands-on printing technique. The process involves carving your design into a wooden block, covering the block in ink, and then manually pressing it onto the fabric to transfer the design.
The outcome is a raised print with a beautifully tactile effect, although the consistency of the print relies heavily on the skill of the artisan. Since the dyes are mixed by hand to match your desired Pantone, it’s important to provide a fabric swatch for accurate colour matching. Each colour requires a separate block, so multi-colour designs require multiple blocks, which increases the time and cost of production.
Block printing creates striking, bold effects with a handmade quality called Wabi Sabi—embracing the slight imperfections that come with this ancient craft. However, it does take longer to dry and is generally more suitable for projects that appreciate its unique, hand-crafted aesthetic.
Pros:
- Unique, artisanal look
- Perfect for bold, simple designs
- Emphasises texture and handcrafting
Cons:
- Time-consuming
- More expensive, especially for intricate designs
- Inconsistent with fine details
Screen Printing
Screen printing originated in China in 960 AD and uses a mesh screen and stencil to transfer the design. Ink is pushed through the mesh using a blade, and one screen is needed for each colour in the design. Multi-colour designs, therefore, require several screens, increasing production time and cost.
Screen printing is great for large quantities because the process becomes more cost-effective with volume. It produces sharp, vibrant colours, which can match Pantone references, and is ideal for designs with solid colours and sharp edges.
However, screen printing is limited in its ability to produce detailed gradients and complex images, making it better suited for simple, bold designs. Additionally, it generates more waste, which can be less environmentally friendly.
Pros:
- Sharp, consistent designs
- Ideal for large production runs
- Vibrant colours and Pantone matching
Cons:
- Limited to one colour per screen
- Labour-intensive for small orders
- Not ideal for detailed images or complex gradients
Digital Printing / Direct to Garment (DTG)
Digital printing / Direct to Garment (DTG) is the most modern method and works similarly to a home inkjet printer. It uses CMYK inks to print directly onto the fabric, allowing for precise replication of intricate designs and complex gradients. Digital printing is also quick, making it the best option for tight deadlines.
This method has lower setup costs and low minimum order quantities since no screens or blocks need to be developed. However, digital printing can be less vibrant than block or screen printing due to the limitations of CMYK inks, and Pantone matching isn’t possible.
Pros:
- Perfect for intricate, detailed designs
- Fast production with low setup costs
- Low minimum order quantities
Cons:
- Cannot Pantone match colours
- Less vibrant than block or screen printing
- Limited for some synthetic fabrics
Dye Sublimation Printing
Dye sublimation is a digital process where inks are transferred onto fabric through heat and pressure. The ink turns into gas and bonds with the fabric fibers, creating a permanent, vibrant print that won’t fade or peel. This method is ideal for detailed, full-colour designs but is limited to synthetic fabrics like polyester.
Pros:
- Permanent, vivid prints
- No texture or residue on the fabric
- Great for intricate details
Cons:
- Limited to synthetic fabrics
- Requires specialised equipment
Pigment Printing
Pigment printing involves applying pigment-based dyes to the surface of the fabric. The pigments sit on top of the fabric rather than embedding into the fibers. This method is versatile and works on both natural and synthetic fabrics but can leave a slight texture on the fabric.
Pros:
- Bright and vibrant colours
- Works on natural and synthetic fabrics
- Cost-effective and versatile
Cons:
- Surface coating may affect fabric feel
- Less durable and prone to fading
Reactive Printing
Reactive printing chemically bonds the dye with fabric fibers, resulting in vibrant, long-lasting colours. This method normally works well on natural fabrics like cotton, linen, and silk, but requires pre-treatment and post-treatment processes, making it more labour-intensive.
Pros:
- Extremely durable
- Bright, saturated colours
- Works well on natural fabrics
Cons:
- Requires complex pre- and post-treatment
- More expensive for small runs
How SupplyScope Can Streamline Your Workflow
Fabric printing requires careful coordination, especially when you’re dealing with multiple suppliers and methods.
Ensuring that your specific instructions—such as printing techniques, colour matching, and fabric requirements—are clearly included in your tech pack is crucial. This helps avoid miscommunication and ensures consistency across your production runs.
SupplyScope’s Fashion PLM simplifies this process by helping you manage vendor compliance, quality control, and custom workflows from a single platform. With SupplyScope’s tech pack management, storing detailed construction comments and printing instructions becomes much easier. This means that if you decide to expand your production to a new location, the same instructions and past learnings can be seamlessly transferred, ensuring consistency and quality across all factories.
With SupplyScope, you can also set up a vendor onboarding template to ensure that your supplier has the right machinery—for example, the correct equipment for digital or screen printing. This ensures all printing partners meet your specific standards before production begins, helping you maintain control and quality from the start.
You can also build customised workflows that guide your internal team through processes like pre-shipment inspections and freight booking, ensuring every step of your fabric production stays on track.
